Between autumn and winter at the Hochtannberg Pass.
One could almost think that everything is at rest when the bronze-coloured grass lies flat on the slopes and the sun barely reaches above the Karhorn. Long shadows. Closed mountain huts. But the calm is deceptive. For the busy people at the Hochtannberg Pass, a very special season is about to begin. Somewhere between autumn and winter. Between tranquility and peak season. And indeed: the first snowflakes have just fallen!
Warth and Schröcken at the Hochtannberg Pass. Off-season still prevails in Vorarlberg, at 1,679 metres. Here we explore to enjoy the views and hiking trails, to find peace and relaxation, and to meet the people of this mountain region. Together, the two communities have 394 inhabitants. Each has its own charm, its own philosophy.
Simmel Chapel.
Between the two villages, at the mountain pass, lies the small Simmel Chapel. For 500 years, this little church has stood here, in this remote location. Until the end of the 19th century, twelve families even lived in the community known as Hochkrumbach. Life was hard. One winter, it must have been bitterly cold, the residents had to sacrifice even the few chapel benches to the warming fire. Fortunately, those times are long past. Today, a modern hotel stands in this spot. The Hochtannberg Pass is now a popular starting point for wonderful hikes and mountain tours. In winter, it offers the northernmost section of Austria’s largest ski area: Ski Arlberg. 300 kilometres of pistes, connected by more than 85 lifts and cable cars. And in between, 200 unprepared deep-snow runs - the freeride paradise of the Alps.
Weltfriedenskreuz on the Simmel.
Over the years, the Hochtannberg Pass has remained a place of hope and peace. One of only a few World Peace Crosses worldwide stands prominently on the Simmel, a 1,754-metre-high hilltop. A place of power. A solemn monument that invites reflection. But peace is also carried by the people living east and west of this mountain pass. Here, everyone seems to have found their place - in Warth as well as in Schröcken. A soothing pragmatism meets here two different times: one long past, whose hands appear to have stopped, and a vibrant modernity, leaving nothing to be desired and ambitiously moving into the future.
Personalities from Warth-Schröcken.
There is, for example, Herbert Ritter, who has been driving the ski bus up here for over 60 years. Or Patrik Marinelli, who runs the Hotel Adler up here, but also serves as a First Responder for the Red Cross and, more recently, as an air rescue worker for accidents involving guests and locals. Between Warth and Schröcken, we meet a mayor who also works as a demolition expert in winter, a family of unique Olympic gold winners, and people who have found their workplace in this mountain environment - as hiking guides, ski instructors, or both. One thing is clear: the seemingly endless creativity, motivation, and philosophy of these people have shaped this region into what it is today - a place where people love to spend time.
Schwarzmann Family.
Jakob Schwarzmann.
Approaching the Hochtannberg Pass from the west, from the Bregenz Forest, you pass through the community of Schoppernau. From there, the terrain rises steeply: Schröcken sits more than 400 metres above Schoppernau - but still 500 metres below the World Peace Cross on the distinctive Simmel. There is said to be a 4**** mountain lodge here. In summer 2022, it opened its doors for the first time - for hikers, skiers, families, gourmets, and nature lovers. Truly, a place for everyone: the Berghaus Schröcken.
Hiking guide Andi is still in the house, happily showing guests the nature right outside the lodge. Jakob and Paul, however, are already poised to start. “We are passionate skiers, often off-piste in deep snow. The north-facing slopes in this region are famous for that. And when time allows, we also work as state-certified ski instructors.”
Hiking guide Andi is still in the house, happily showing guests the nature right outside the lodge. Jakob and Paul, however, are already poised to start. “We are passionate skiers, often off-piste in deep snow. The north-facing slopes in this region are famous for that. And when time allows, we also work as state-certified ski instructors.”
Andi Tomann.
In fact, Andi prefers moving fast - as a trail runner in the local mountains. For example, during the Seven Summits Tour Schröcken, a unique charity event: seven peaks, 48 kilometres, 4,300 metres of elevation gain - all in one go. Andi took a solid nine hours to reach the finish line - a remarkable achievement! His love of sport also means that he knows every trail here, no matter how long.
Stefan Strolz.
We crossed the Hochtannberg Pass heading east, past the Simmel and then downhill into the community of Warth. Winter now seems truly close. The final preparations are underway, and soon skiing will resume. This also marks a special time for Stefan Strolz. He is the mayor of Vorarlberg’s second-smallest municipality - closely followed by Schröcken.
Here, everyone knows everyone, which doesn’t necessarily make being mayor any easier. It’s quite possible that a photo of a broken streetlight is sent directly to the mayor’s phone. He takes it all in good humour - and has done so for twelve years.
Here, everyone knows everyone, which doesn’t necessarily make being mayor any easier. It’s quite possible that a photo of a broken streetlight is sent directly to the mayor’s phone. He takes it all in good humour - and has done so for twelve years.
“My goal is to continue leading the community as we inherited it from our parents. Appreciation is very important, especially in today’s world. This also means keeping pace with the times.”
But Stefan Strolz is not only a mayor - he is practically an explosives expert as well. That’s right: as head of the avalanche commission, Strolz himself takes to the helicopter to trigger controlled avalanches with precisely dropped explosives.
Patrik Marinelli.
Not far from the spot where the avalanche reached the valley, we meet Patrik Marinelli. The 32-year-old hotelier is already running the house in its fourth generation. The location is unique, and so is the history of the building.
Hubert Strolz & Herbert Ritter.
When the snow piles high again, it’s also time once more for Hubert Strolz and Herbert Ritter. Both are as well-known here as colourful characters - each in their own way.
Herbert Ritter.
Herbert Ritter has been driving the ski bus at the Hochtannberg Pass for 60 years - armed with quirky humour and angelic patience. Thirty-two horsepower were enough six decades ago. Back then, a snowplough was improvised in a very simple, unconventional way, mounted directly on the front axle of the minibus. Caution was necessary! But Ritter has safely transported all passengers so far. Even in the winter of ’66, when snowdrifts rose over eight metres high. To protect winter sports enthusiasts from the snow, he squeezed more than twenty people into the vehicle. Through these dramatic moments, Ritter remained calm - and still does today. Accident-free. A lifetime of safe driving. He has even transported plenty of VIPs: Caroline of Hanover, Princess of Monaco, for example, or a prince from Liechtenstein, who must have been surprised when the driver casually introduced himself as Ritter of Schröcken.
Hubert Strolz.
We meet Hubert Strolz in the evening. But if you keep your eyes open, you might also spot him on the region’s slopes, or on one of the many posters where he and his son Johannes display their medals. In 1988, in Calgary, Canada, exceptional skier Hubert Strolz won Olympic gold in the combined event. Was it thanks to a trip to Jamaica just one week before the Olympics? Strolz isn’t entirely sure - but it was certainly a good idea to clear his head and recharge. The contrast afterward, however, was intense: icy cold and bone dry. Fortunately, the whole team was prepared for such conditions.
The entire town of Warth celebrated this gold moment, unaware that the Strolz family would top it. Thirty-four years after Calgary, Hubert’s son Johannes won Olympic gold - in the same discipline. Unique. Father and son. Could there be a more perfect double gold?
The entire town of Warth celebrated this gold moment, unaware that the Strolz family would top it. Thirty-four years after Calgary, Hubert’s son Johannes won Olympic gold - in the same discipline. Unique. Father and son. Could there be a more perfect double gold?
Author: Benni Sauer | ALPSTYLE Magazine